Advertisements

While food is always quite good in South Africa, it’s absolutely spectacular at The Test Kitchen in Cape Town, South Africa. With dozens of awards and accolades under it’s roster, dining here is a wonderful and reasonably priced experience by first world standards.


This post is one chapter on our trip to South Africa, a Safari in the Maasai Mara in Kenya and Mauritius. This trip was redeemed through Air Canada’s Aeroplan and through Starwood Preferred Guest (Marriott Bonvoy) and Hyatt Gold Passport. For more information on how this trip was booked, please see our trip introduction here. For other parts of the trip, please see this index.

If you enjoyed this post, please follow us here or on social media through Facebook, Twitter or Instagram for more travel tips and hacks on how to “Upgrade Your Travels”.


Read More from This Trip


Review: The Test Kitchen, Cape Town, South Africa

Cape Town has recently developed a reputation as being a “foodie” destination. Indeed, it boasts some of the best restaurants in Africa. The international community has started to take notice. Checking the San Pellingrino Top 50 Restaurant List for options in South Africa, we decided to pay The Test Kitchen a visit. In 2013, The Test Kitchen was ranked at #61 out of 100 and has been awarded The San Pelligrino 2013 “One to Watch” award. After our visit, it continued to win world wide accolades including best restaurant in Africa by San Pellegrino, and one of the top restaurants in the world by Elite Traveller.

Unfortunately, I didn’t get around to booking the reservation until two months in advance. Even then, I was too late to secure a dinner seat. We opted for a lunch instead on the day after our arrival. The restaurant only seats 65, making it a small volume affair.

The restaurant is located in the Old Biscuit Mill area, which is a refurbished warehouse area. Our taxi driver had no idea where The Test Kitchen was, but immediately recognized “the Old Biscuit Mill”. We were also easily able to catch a private metered taxi outside the Old Biscuit Mill after our meal, without having to have the restaurant call one for us after lunch.

The Test Kitchen
The Old Biscuit Mill Grounds
The Old Biscuit Mill
The Test Kitchen Entrance

Inside the Test Kitchen:

The Test Kitchen, in the format during our visit, was a small and intimate space across many areas. The place was hip and had warm and contemporary personality. We were shown inside and offered our seats.

Inside the Test Kitchen
At the Bar – The Test Kitchen
The Kitchen powering the Test Kitchen

The Concept:

As some of you may know, MrsWT73 is not a self described foodie, whereas WT73 can’t get enough of exotic international food. Food on Lufthansa First Class is heaven for me, whereas it’s H-E- Double Hockey sticks for MrsWT73. Fortunately, the food at The Test Kitchen were approachable and innovative. The food concept is self described as “eclectic international”, making it an enjoyable meal for both of us. 

As with many other restaurants in South Africa, The Test Kitchen was fantastic value. We enjoyed a 5 course lunch, with 5 wine pairings for $69 USD per person. If you are abstaining on the wine, the 5 course lunch is approximately $47 USD (470 Rand). They also do a la carte for those with lighter appetites. 

In my humble opinion, this restaurant gets it right when compared to our other fine dining experience at The Tasting Room in Franschoek. It targets the more moderate and modern crowd at a lower price point and in a more accessible location. This was by far the best value and highest quality meal that we had on our trip. 

Today’s Lunch Menu

The Meal: A Five Course Lunch

We started off with an assortment of fresh baked breads.

Freshly Baked Breads

Our first course was home dried tomato, black sesame and aubergine puree, burnt aubergine jelly and goat cheese mouse, paired with the fantastic Sequillo White 2011. 

Home dried tomato, black sesame & aubergine puree, burnt aubergine jelly & goat cheese mouse

The second course was a pickled fish – ceviche, lightly curried dressing, bbq carrots, ras el hanout honeycomb, paired with Silverthorn Green Man 2010.

Pickled fish – ceviche, lightly curried dressing, bbq carrots, and ras el hanout honeycomb

MrsWT73, not being a fish fan, opted for an off menu dish for the second serving. She was offered this wonderful lamb shoulder with mixed greens that included snap peas, shaved cucumber and foam. This dish easily wins a most beautifully presented dish award.

Lamb shoulder with mixed greens that included snap peas, shaved cucumber and foam.

For the third course, we were presented with pork Belly – pressed parsley apples, wild rosemary infused honey, blue cheese cream and crackling, paired with Paul Cluver Riesling Dry Encounter 2012.

Pork Belly – pressed parsley apples, wild rosemary infused honey, blue cheese cream & crackling

Between course number three and four, we were presented with an off menu mint infused palette cleanser… The leaves added a sensory touch to the fish and we were encouraged to feel the texture of the plant.

The Mint Infused Palette Cleanser

For our fourth course, we enjoyed a wonderful slow cooked duck leg, mushroom and liver stuffing, assorted onions and duck liver jus, paired with Rainbow’s End Merlot 2011.

Slow cooked duck leg, mushroom and liver stuffing, assorted onions & duck liver jus

For the end, we had a choice of desserts. MrsWT73 couldn’t pass up the beautifully presented cheese dessert plate… The cheese was a selection of South African Cheese with fruit preserve, gorgonzola, mature cheddar, camembert, goats milk, paired with Bosman Dolce Primativo 2012. 


A Selection of South African Cheese with fruit preserve, gorgonzola, mature cheddar, camembert, goats milk

I went with the opposite with the more contemporary chocolate… described as Assisette of chocolate, grilled white chocolate and cinnamon sponge, carmela cremeux and guanja parfait, paired with lovely Paul Cluver Reisling NLH 2012.

A towering mound of chocolate:

Assisette of chocolate, grilled white chocolate and cinnamon sponge, carmela cremeux & guanja parfait

All of the platings were fabulous and even MrsWT73 who does not normally enjoy such exotic dining experiences throughly enjoyed the whole experience. 

Our experience at The Test Kitchen:

If you happen to be through Cape Town, I’’d recommend making time for this restaurant in your travels. You’’ll find it well worthwhile. I really enjoyed the pairing combinations between the dishes. I also enjoyed tasting some excellent wines that I wouldn’t normally get the opportunity to try or enjoy. Make sure you book well in advance – our reservations were handled via email with minimal difficulty.

Editors Note:

Since our visit, The Test Kitchen has been re-branded as the The Test Kitchen Origins. The new concept features both a 3 and a 5 course menu (as opposed to just a five course option) with wine pairings. The concept is run by the same executive chef and Team behind the original The Test Kitchen.



Advertisements

A visit to Table Mountain behind Cape Town, South Africa is another essential activity to do when in Cape Town. A visit to Cape Town will leave these mountains seared into your memory forever.


This post is one chapter on our trip to South Africa, a Safari in the Maasai Mara in Kenya and Mauritius. This trip was redeemed through Air Canada’s Aeroplan and through Starwood Preferred Guest (Marriott Bonvoy) and Hyatt Gold Passport. For more information on how this trip was booked, please see our trip introduction here. For other parts of the trip, please see this index.

If you enjoyed this post, please follow us here or on social media through Facebook, Twitter or Instagram for more travel tips and hacks on how to “Upgrade Your Travels”.


Read More from This Trip


Activity: Exploring Table Mountain via the Table Mountain Cableway, Cape Town, South Africa

Table Mountain is a large flat topped landmark that is situated immediately behind Cape Town. It forms part of the Table Mountain National Park. Table Mountain is at the northern end of a sandstone mountain range that forms the spine of the Cape Peninsula that terminates approximately 50 kilometres (30 mi) to the south at the Cape of Good Hope and the Cape Point. Immediately to the south of Table Mountain is a rugged “plateau” at a somewhat lower elevation than the Table Mountain Plateau (at about 1,000 m or 3,300 ft), called the “Back Table”. 

Table Mountain

Getting there:

It’s fairly easy to get to the Table Mountain Aerial Cableway. It was a 6 kilometer or ten minute drive from the Westin Cape Town up to the cable car base terminus. On this trip, we self drove in our rental car and parked at the base of the mountain.

Ticketing and When to Go:

Visiting Table Mountain is an activity that is best done in favourable weather when there is good visibility. On my visits to Cape Town, we have always planned our visits in tandem with good clear weather. There are several times when the top of the mountain is obscured with the Cape’s locally famous drop table cloth which obscures visibility. In our experience, it’s best to plan your visit when you know what the weather conditions are and can be assured of clear and good visibility.

Tickets are available for purchase direct through the Table Mountain Aerial Cableway website.

We have accessed the Table Mountain Aerial Cableway by both taxi, bus and (eventually) Uber being that it is very close to town. It is also located on the Hop On Hop Off bus routes for Cape Town, although given that visiting Table Mountain is a half to full day activity, you may want to save the value of your Hop On Hop Off ticket for other attractions.

Visiting Table Mountain:

Upon arrival at the Tramway Base, dependent on your arrival time, there is typically a short queue for the tram car. We have typically waited anywhere from 15 – 30 minuets to get access to the cable car cabin.

After leaving the Tramway base, you hop onto a circular tramway car that leads up to the top of the Southern end of Table Mountain. The car is circular inside, meaning that no matter where you stand in the car, you will eventually be rotated around for a sea view.

Rising up Table Mountain
From the Cable Car: On the Way Up
From the Cable Car: Views of Signal Hill On the Way Up

On Top of Table Mountain:

Once you get to the top of Table Mountain, you are treated to spectacular ocean views and a trial network that spans several miles. The trails run along the flat topography of the top of the mountain.

The Top of Cable Mountain
Table Mountain Walkways
Table Mountain Roof Top
Mountain Top Alpine Flowers

Peering over the top of Table Mountain, there are views to be enjoyed. I always find these spectacular vista’s to be really aspirational and the real meaning of why we travel.

Views of the Sides of Table Mountain
Views of the Beach at Camps Bay
Views of the Western Atlantic Coast Line
Coastline Views
Views of Signal Hill and the surrounding area
Views of Cape Town Central Business District
Rugged Mountain Terrain
Side lines marking the various trails up and down Table Mountain

A day on Table Mountain is an aspirational, beautiful and spectacular visit in one of the most gorgeous corners on earth.

Our Day on Top of Table Mountain:

A visit to Table Mountain is an activity that’s best planned in good weather. While it can be done in a short visit, it’s best experienced allowing for half or a full day of wandering. The views are nothing short of spectacular and our time there has always been one of our favourite travel memories when visiting Cape Town.



Advertisements

We had a five day stay in Cape Town and centred ourselves in the modern Westin Cape Town hotel. We had a terrific stay at this property, and really enjoyed our suite, the Executive Lounge, along with the central location of the property.


This post is one chapter on our trip to South Africa, a Safari in the Maasai Mara in Kenya and Mauritius. This trip was redeemed through Air Canada’s Aeroplan and through Starwood Preferred Guest (Marriott Bonvoy) and Hyatt Gold Passport. For more information on how this trip was booked, please see our trip introduction here. For other parts of the trip, please see this index.

If you enjoyed this post, please follow us here or on social media through Facebook, Twitter or Instagram for more travel tips and hacks on how to “Upgrade Your Travels”.


Read More from This Trip


Review: Westin Cape Town, Cape Town, South Africa

“One of my favourite modern chain hotels in Cape Town, with a world class Executive Lounge that offers sparkling Cap Classique at breakfast”

How we Booked:

We picked this hotel because it’s a Westin property that was fairly new. At the time, the Westin was the only property in the Starwood Program in Cape Town, South Africa. We redeemed points under the Starwood Preferred Guest program. As a (then) Category 4 hotel, our redemption under Starwood Preferred Guest was for 10,000 points per night. The rate got even better with the fifth night free on SPG award stays, lowering the rate to the equivalent of 8,000 Starpoints per night, for a total of five nights for 40,000 Starwood Preferred Guest points. I felt that this was a pretty good deal for a hotel in a major city.

As we all now know, the Starwood Preferred Guest Program was absorbed by Marriott Rewards program in 2017 to form the new Marriott Bonvoy Program. The hotel today remains a reasonable deal as a Marriott Rewards Category 5 Program under the new Marriott Bonvoy regime. The rooms remain available for 35,000 Marriott Bonvoy Points (or the equivalent of 11,666 Starwood Preferred Guest points by today’s 1:3 value), with the fifth night free on reward stays of 5 nights. At an approximately value of 0.005 cents per Marriott Bonvoy point, if you can get a room rate under $175 USD, you’d be better off paying cash. If the room is over $175 USD, you’re likely better off redeeming points if you’re okay with the lost opportunity earning cost. Thanks to Marriott / Starwood merger, there are also lots of Protea Hotels in the Cape Town area that are of lower category points that may also provide other opportunities.

Getting to the Westin Cape Town:

As we were arriving at about 10 PM, I decided back in Chicago that we’d attempt to book the car service for our transfer to the hotel. The Westin Cape Town was attentive enough to respond to emails within 24 hours. By the time we had arrived in Johannesburg, the process had been confirmed. On arrival in Cape Town, we were met by the Westin meet and greet service and were taken to the hotel in a pleasant E Class Mercedes for a 20 minute transfer to the hotel.

Westin Cape Town Mercedes E Class Transfer

There are a few international hotel chains in Cape Town, and our choices for this trip were really limited to the Westin, the One and Only or the Table Bay hotel. We ended up at the Westin and our decision did not disappoint us.

Checking into to the Westin Cape Town:

The Westin Cape Town
The Westin Cape Town Lobby Area

On check in we were recognized as an SPG Gold. We were offered bonus Starpoints as the welcome amenity or a free drink in the bar. We accepted the bonus points as glasses of wine in the bar started at $3 USD. 

Our check in agent Jan offered us a “nice” room and said that he had upgraded us to a suite for our stay. I was super impressed has a suite upgrade at the desk has never happened to me before; especially as an SPG Gold which does not qualify for upgrades as a published benefit. As a result, we ended up in a Junior Suite for our stay. Jan also explained the process for executive lounge access which came with the suite, and the complimentary van shuttle to the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront which ran every 30 minutes (travel time 12 mins).

The Room: A Junior Suite, King

We headed up to the room, which was on the eighth floor. The room was accessed behind a glass keycard door which limited access to the floor.

Glass Door Access
Our Assigned Room #801

The room itself was spacious and comfortable. As a corner room, it featured a proper separate living and sleeping area. The room was attractively and freshly designed with fashionable, but neutral colours.

The Westin Heavenly King Bed
TV’s in the Bedroom

The living area had a proper work area, along with a separate place for lounging. The living area offered a television, a couch and chair, a stand alone work table and a computer printer.

A proper suite seating area

The room also featured a fridge that was fully stocked with mini bar goodies, along with a snacks, proper stemware and coffee makers.

A fully stocked mini and snack bar
Glass and Stemware available along with coffee makers

There are only a few suites per floor. Our’s occupied the corner of the property.

The Westin Cape Town Floor Plan with our #801 marked in the corner

With nineteen floors in the hotel, the likelihood of a suite upgrade isn’t completely guaranteed. But there may be one or two available if you happen to be lucky.

A Room with a View:

The room had a view toward the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront, overlooking the convention center.

View from Room #801 overlooking the hotels meeting’s space

Security signs were prevalent around the room. This was a theme that we experienced through all of our stays on the African continent.  We locked our bags at all times and did not have any issues. 

Security Signs around the Room

We did also did SPG Make a Green choice for 4 nights by waiving the housekeeping in exchange for 500 Starwood Preferred Guest points per night. Despite this, housecleaning did some spot cleaning twice a day regardless of Green Choice option of varying qualities. The two thousand SPG points posted without issue within 24 hrs. 

The Westin Executive Club on the 19th floor:

The upgrade to the executive lounge meant that we had an included complimentary buffet breakfast. The executive lounge access made our trip as we ended up taking breakfast (continental) up there every day. The views from the 19th floor over breakfast were also spectacular. There was a small $4 USD up charge for egg items off the menu but in practice, they would often waive the charge. We only were asked to pay once over our 5 day stay. 

There were limited dining options immediately around the hotel, and the main restaurant in the hotel downstairs only offers a full priced buffet. With no coffee shop near the hotel, I’d recommend getting a breakfast included rate if at all possible. The executive club restaurant is also open to guests not on the executive floor via the executive reception, although most other guests appeared to end up in the lobby restaurant. 

The Executive Lounge – 19th floor

In addition to the table dining area, there was also a small couch lounge area. Lounge area of the 19th floor. There is no second part to the photo – the seating area is extremely limited. Free wifi was offered in the Executive Lounge for all guests.

Small Work Area in the Executive Lounge

We enjoyed breakfast up here on a daily basis with local sparkling Cap Classique with breakfast everyday.

Eggs Benedict with Smoked Salmon in one of my favourite Executive Lounges worldwide

There are also some interesting views of the partially completed elevated freeway system around Cape Town. I was told in 1998 that South African did not have expropriation laws on the books which meant that some freeways had to be built in phases. It seems that some projects did not get completed.

Views from the Lounge – half completed elevated freeways

Food and Beverage at the Hotel:

The Westin Cape Town also offered a free manager’s reception in the lobby Thirty 7 restaurant at 17-19 on Sunday. Three free small appetizers and free pour local spirits and drinks. There is also a high end wine shop in the lobby area, which offered shipping to some countries. It was closed during much of our time there as we often returned to the hotel late.

Westin Cape Town Lobby – Wine Shop in the Foreground

Fitness Amenities at the Hotel:

The hotel was fully featured and offered a gym and small pool area. The pool had a 12 and older age restriction. It was a bit of a dark space, as it was indoors.

Indoor Pool
Westin Cape Town Gym

Other Amenities in the Hotel:

Europcar Rental Location in the Westin Hotel Lobby:

We rented a car for a week through the Europcar location located within the Westin Hotel lobby through the www.nationalcar.com website. The car rental experience was regretfully probably the worst that I’ve had the opportunity to experience. . It seemed that there were major problems in South Africa between reservations made at the point of sale and what was actually delivered. This was not limited to our experiences with SAA, Europcar but also Hyatt as you’ll see later in the Trip Report. 

First off, it’s worth noting that this Europcar location is no more than a single person at a desk off the side of the lobby that’s cleaned out at the end of every night. If someone is in front of you, this will mean a long wait. A poor group behind us waited over an hour just to get dealt with. There are no cars here and all reservations are filled to order with cars delivered from another location. This also means no last minute changes to your reservation, as they bring what’s available to park in the garage for your booking. 

Despite being an Emerald Club member, with all personal and credit card information pre-populated on my profile and with the reservation, picking up a car here took 1 hour and 10 minutes of actual transaction time at the rental counter. This included manually calling a credit card authorization number and reading off the individual credit card numbers orally over the phone, seeking pre-authorization for a 12,000 rand deposit.

After completing all the materials by hand, I was hit with the demand that “You have to take our extra insurance cover otherwise we can not let you take the car.” I tried explaining that I have it along with the credit card but this was refused. I was apparently supposed to turn up with a letter from the issuing credit card bank indicating that the credit card insurance applied to rental cars. I asked if they could look this information up on the internet but it was declined. I explained that there was nothing like this written in the terms and conditions (having a copy of the reservation with me). My concerns were dismissed as I had booked through the “National Car” website and not the “Europcar Website” as “National car is not part of our company”. Checking after the fact, the information wasn’t spelled out on the Europcar website either, saying only “insurance details available from the Europcar office”. The process concluded with the clerk from Europcar making an international call to American Express Canada and having American Express Canada issue a letter by email indicating insurance coverage. Surprisingly, the AMEX Canada office was open and this process only took about 15 minutes.

The GPS that we requested on the reservation didn’t arrive (“We have too many requests to honor the reservation”), which wasn’t of real concern as the highway signs around South Africa were really well sign posted. However when we returned the car a week later at the Cape Town Airport (no drop fee), the GPS was showing as on the reservation as a chargeable amount. Another 20 minutes waiting at the counter with the supervisor while they sorted this out, which involved calling the original rental location since they “couldn’t change it from here”. 

We were sent on our way without a final bill, which was a bit strange but it seemed to be the normal process by other renters returning cars. When we got the bill 4 days later by email, we were hit with a 10$ USD refueling charge, despite the car being returned full of gas. A bit of a disappointment as the gas tank only held $30 worth of gas so a $10 charge would have represented a 1/3 of the tank missing. Two emails to the designated Europcar address to get this sorted out went unanswered and ignored. 

I consider myself a patient guy and considerate of other countries issues. In this case, I felt as though 90 minutes of administrative burden on the part of Europcar was an unnecessary and unwelcomed period of to expect customers to wait for a simple pick up and drop off. The wait, the missing GPS, the unexpected gasoline charges and the unreasonable and unexpected insurance coverage charges weren’t the end of the world but certainly an inconvenience that would make me think twice about renting here next time. My overall impression was that they were running a sloppy company. I’d recommend renting elsewhere, as Europcar didn’t make it easy. 

One Additional Point:

As a bonus, but somewhat unrelated to this review, my plastic wrapped lost suitcase arrived at end of day 2 of our stay, having traveled the original ORD-GRU-JNB routing. The suitcase lock was cut off and missing but its contents were otherwise intact. It was a bit of relief since I was running out of clothes by this point! The SAA Baggage Tracer website was hopelessly out of date – as by the time the bag was delivered, the website was still showing as “bag not located – searching continues”.

Relieved to see my checked bag!

The Bottom Line on the Westin Cape Town:

In summary, we had a really enjoyable stay here in Cape Town and would highly recommend this property as a home for your travels around the Cape Town area. In addition to being a comfortable place to say, the property is competitively priced on points and offers good SPG Cash and Points availability with reasonable redemption rates. We would end up staying here again in the future as we enjoyed it so much.


Advertisements

Our Aeroplan Business Class Redemption had us breaking out journey on that ticket with a stop over in Johannesburg. Since most of the excitement (for us) in South Africa is down in Cape Town, we needed a short positioning flight to get down there. We booked this ticket separately on the SAA website on the most commonly travelled domestic route in South Africa.


This post is one chapter on our trip to South Africa, a Safari in the Maasai Mara in Kenya and Mauritius. This trip was redeemed through Air Canada’s Aeroplan and through Starwood Preferred Guest (Marriott Bonvoy) and Hyatt Gold Passport. For more information on how this trip was booked, please see our trip introduction here. For other parts of the trip, please see this index.

If you enjoyed this post, please follow us here or on social media through Facebook, Twitter or Instagram for more travel tips and hacks on how to “Upgrade Your Travels”.


Read More from This Trip


Review: South African Airways A320-2, Johannesburg – Cape Town

This will be a brief review. By the time we had flown this segment, we had been travelling for almost three days straight. We’d started in Vancouver, flown United Airlines Vancouver to Chicago, had our flight cancelled, unexpectedly stayed overnight in Chicago, and then another overnight flight on South African Airways Washington Dulles – Dakar, then onwards on South African Airways Dakar to Johannesburg. This was our last flight before our touching down at our hotel room for the next few days.

About 30 minutes before the flight, we headed down to the gate. On arrival, people were lined up already waiting to board at the podium. There was no priority boarding call and we again did the mad crush boarding style for the gate. 

Boarding Area, SAA Domestic

The gate agent didn’t like our roller board suitcase and laptop bag combination that is common throughout North America. We got stopped and told we would have to gate check one of the bags. The gate agent held up the line while he filled out a limited release and the forms needed to tag and gate check the carry ons.

It’s funny how when you get really irritated, your mind reflects back to things you have perhaps experienced or seen in the past. In this case, it was the words of Kate Winslet’s character Rose Dawson from the movie Titanic when she ran away from Cal’s bodyguard with Leo “I’m through being nice!”  

 After the end of our fifth consecutive flight and about 40 hrs of continuous travel, we’d had it by this point with the lost luggage, stubborn ticketing issues / interruptions and short sleeps and decided as soon as we were out of the gate agent’s sight, we’d sneak on the bags. Around the corner, we tore off the gate check claim tags and just rolled on our suitcases onto the plane, which thankfully no one seemed to notice. 

On Board South African Airways A320 Short Haul Domestic:

Today’s flight was served by one of SAA’s brand new Airbus 320-200’s. We had initially booked on the A340-6, but they had an aircraft swap or downgrade and that equipment didn’t show up. The crew was very proud of the newer A320 aircraft as it was a recent arrival to the SAA fleet..

South African Airways
Economy Class
JNB-CPT (O.R. Tambo Johannesburg International – Cape Town International)
SA 223 – Economy Class (L)
6:30 PM – 7:20 PM
November 5, 2013
Booked: Boeing 340-600
Flown: Boeing 320-200

The configuration is 2-2 in Business Class, and 3-3 in economy class. By a stroke of luck, we were seated in the bulkhead.

SAA JNB-CPT A320-2 Bulkhead Seats on the way to Cape Town

The aircraft had the next generation form of moving map, which had interactive displays of your position.

On our way from JNB

The Meal: A Small Dinner

On the way down to “The Mother City” of Cape Town, a beverage service including complimentary bar service was offered. A complimentary meal was also offered with a choice of chicken and rice or beef with strips. I can certainly applaud South African Airways for offering a free meal and bar service, even in economy for a domestic flight.

Beef, pasta and salad with white wine

Arriving to The Mother City:

We arrived in Cape Town to a non gate position and boarded a bus to the terminal. There was a bit of rain on the ground in Cape Town, on a cool evening.

Arriving to Cape Town with the terminal in the background

As we were arriving at about 10 PM, I decided back in Chicago that we’d attempt to book the car service for our transfer to the hotel. The Westin Cape Town was attentive enough to respond to emails within 24 hours. By the time we had arrived in Johannesburg, the process had been confirmed. On arrival in Cape Town, we were met by the Westin meet and greet service and were taken to the hotel in a pleasant E Class Mercedes for a 20 minute transfer to the hotel.

Pleasant Merceies E Class Car Transfer

In closing:

Our South African Airways domestic flight was pretty reasonable given the difficulties we’d had earlier in the trip. Aside form the carry on police, we were fed, watered and had a reasonable bulk head seat. The newer Airbus 320 – 2 is among the newer more fuel efficient aircraft that SAA has and you can tell that the staff are really proud to fly it.


Advertisements

While we connected through O.R. Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg, we were able to access the South African Airways Baobab Domestic Lounge. A lounge after a long international flight is always appreciated and the SAA Baobab experience was enjoyable despite the long distances we had travelled.


This post is one chapter on our trip to South Africa, a Safari in the Maasai Mara in Kenya and Mauritius. This trip was redeemed through Air Canada’s Aeroplan and through Starwood Preferred Guest (Marriott Bonvoy) and Hyatt Gold Passport. For more information on how this trip was booked, please see our trip introduction here. For other parts of the trip, please see this index.

If you enjoyed this post, please follow us here or on social media through Facebook, Twitter or Instagram for more travel tips and hacks on how to “Upgrade Your Travels”.


Read More from This Trip


Review: South African Airways Baobab Premium Lounge Domestic, OR Tambo International Airport, Johannesburg, South Africa

“Like many aspects of South African Airways, the Baobab Lounge Domestic at OR Tambo International Airport offers a terrific spacious place to relax before your connecting flight.”

This review is about the South African Airways Baobab Domestic Lounge at O.R. Tambo International Airport. For the other South African Airways lounge at O.R. Tambo International Airport in Johannsberg, please see our review of the South African Airways Baobab International Lounge.

Checking into South African Airways:

More difficulties with flight ticketing continued…

After arriving off our South African Airways Washington Dulles – Dakar, and Dakar – Johannesburg, we cleared customs, bypassed the closed SAA Arrivals lounge, and headed over to the South African Airways connections desk.

We were traveling on to Cape Town International on a separate ticket purchased on SAA via the SAA website. We had to change the dates of this separate ticket after our United Airlines Chicago – Sao Paulo flight was cancelled due to mechanical reasons. After presenting our passports and reservation, the agent seemed to have difficulty with the booking. One boarding pass spits out of the printer, despite both being on the same reference number, and we are told “You’ll have to go upstairs to check in to get the manager to hit the override button.”

With a bit of groan, we checked our only remaining bag (since the others had gotten lost en-route) and left the connections desk. We changed some money and headed upstairs to the dark Terminal B Departures hall. The hall, built sometime ago when large monolithic concrete buildings were the in vogue style, was dark and dimly lit. We found the SAA priority check in desk area for business class and Star Alliance Gold in the Terminal B departures hall. It looks brighter in these photos than it actually was. 

OR Tambo Johannesburg Domestic Check In Desks
South African Airways Business Class / Star Alliance Gold Check In

After presenting the passports and reservation and explaining the “override” story. We were told “One of your tickets did not go through. You’ll have to go over to ticketing to get it sorted out.” It indicated your credit card was declined. 

Getting increasingly bored (and honestly irritated) with this being our eighth unnecessary stop combined with all the luggage issues) with the standing at the counter waiting game, we headed over to the ticketing counter to sort the mess out. 

Over to the Ticketing Counters to use a “different” charge machine

We learned that one ticket (despite both passengers on the same PNR) did not finalize when we made the change by phone in Washington 36 hours ago. An administrative note on file indicated that the American Express credit card was declined. Further to this, the administrator notes on file indicated that SAA had allegedly emailed and SMS’ed purchaser’s account. Of course, neither message made it through to our smartphones and we had previously called Amex to advise them of our travel plans. Keeping in mind that the SAA website was unable to accommodate a simple electronic ticket change with a ticket purchased through their initial point of sale. If this was travelling in Africa in 2013, we were going to be in for a bumpy trip. 

After about 15 minutes the ticket agent was able to sort us out by running through the second charge on an old fashioned credit card embossing imprinter (click-click) of $161 to change the ticket. Of course, they couldn’t issue a boarding pass at the ticket counter. That would be too easy. “You’ll have to go back over to check in.”

We both had some steam coming from our ears by this point dealing with this at the end of an overseas flight, but we were frankly too tired to put up a fuss. Looking back in hind sight, it was more the fact that we had these inconveniences after an overseas flight, being re-directed from person to person without any real answers.

Locating the South African Airways Baobab Lounge:

We returned to check in. Our domestic boarding pass finally printed and we headed off to the smaller Terminal A gates and the domestic South African Airways Baobab Lounge.

The lounge itself was located along with all others immediately above security. It was accessed using an tiny 5 passenger elevator that smelled like the water closet of a London pub – sticky floors, an odour of stale cigarettes and filth all over the floor.

Accessing the SAA Baobab Lounge:

The lounge was accessed today courtesy of the class of service of our Star Alliance business class ticket. The lounge can also be accessed for those with a Star Alliance Gold Card, regardless of travel class.

South African Airways also affords access to those travelling on South African Airways Business Class, South African Airways Gold and higher (Platinum and Platinum Elect), and South African Airways Lifetime Platinum members. If you happen to be a credit card holder of the SAA Nedbank Premium Card and Voyager Credit Card issued by Ecobank, you also get access.

South African Airways Baobab Domestic Premium Lounge Entrance

Inside the South African Airways Baobab Domestic Lounge:

We were give access and invited into the lounge. There were only two domestic flights remaining for the day. As a result, there was lots of space here at the moment but food and beverage was pretty packed up for the night.

The lounge itself had an earth tone theme going. While this may make the place a little dated, I actually think that the earth tones fit well with the African Landscape themes.

Spacious places: South African Airways Baobab Lounge
Plenty of Space to Relax
A Relaxing Experience

Food and Beverage:

We had a small glass of wine poured in a regular water glass as they had packed up all the wine glasses for the evening.  There appears to be light sandwiches here when you visit during more regular operating hours but tonight we just had scraps available for us.

The Bottom Line: South African Airways Domestic Lounge:

While we visited towards the end of a regular day of operations, this lounge was more than I expected. It was large and had ample places to sit. There was a fair combination between loungers and tables, along with enough quiet corners in order to relax. It’s always interesting to see a country’s flagship lounge for their flag carrier and this location was no exception.


Advertisements

South African Airways offers long haul services from 10 locations around the world in Asia, South American, North America and South America. This is the continuation of our flight on South African Airways Washington Dulles – Dakar, and our technical stop in Dakar, Senegal. The flight is typically sold as one direct segment.


This post is one chapter on our trip to South Africa, a Safari in the Maasai Mara in Kenya and Mauritius. This trip was redeemed through Air Canada’s Aeroplan and through Starwood Preferred Guest (Marriott Bonvoy) and Hyatt Gold Passport. For more information on how this trip was booked, please see our trip introduction here. For other parts of the trip, please see this index.

If you enjoyed this post, please follow us here or on social media through Facebook, Twitter or Instagram for more travel tips and hacks on how to “Upgrade Your Travels”.


Read More from This Trip

Review: South African Airways Business Class A340-3, Dakar Léopold Sédar Senghor International Airport – OR Tambo International Airport Johannesburg, South Africa

Leaving Dakar Léopold Sédar Senghor International Airport, we departed our technical stop 10 minutes ahead of schedule. 

On Board South African Airways Business Class:

For those that are just joining us, we were seated in the same seats as on the outbound segment from Washington Dulles to Dakar. The seats were spacious, comfortable and exceptionally roomy.

South African Airways A340-3 Business Class Seats
Lots of Leg Room – South African Airways Business Class Seats A340-3
South African Airways
DAK-JNB (Léopold Sédar Senghor International Airport Dakar, Senegal – O.R. Tambo Johannesburg International)
SA 208 – Business Class (D)
7:25 AM – 5:50 PM
November 6, 2013
Booked: Airbus 340-300E
Flown: Airbus 340-300E

It was an absolutely beautiful take off this morning with some great scenery to look at, taking off on runway 36 in a North Westerly direction over what looked to be a gorgeous beach and gorgeous fishing. 

Morning Sky on Takeoff from Dakar, Senegal
Morning Light on the Coast Line of Senegal
Morning Fishing Boats

In one of the more unusual flight introduction announcements, the lead flight attendant announced that sleeping on floor is prohibited. This was another first for me. I had some opportunity to read the SAA in flight magazine Sawubona. I usually flip to the technical details in the back since it’s the most interesting part. I saw this notice in the safety instructions. Had a quick chuckle about it but it was all explained later in the trip when we were to go on our Soweto tour and visit of an informal settlement (slum).

Sawbuona – South African Airways Inflight Magazine
Sleeping on the Floor is not Permitted

The Meal: A Full Breakfast

The crew started the breakfast service immediately after take off. We were offered a coffee service , which was startlingly “instant” tasting. 

South African Airways Business Class Menu DAK-JNB

We started off with the sliced seasonal fresh fruit, which was served with cereal and a roll.

Fresh seasonal fruit, with cereal
Stamped Butter with Salt and Pepper Shakers

For the main even, I went with the Caramelized Peach and Mascarpone French Toast (I wasn’t going anywhere near the goat cheese and leek strata). 

Caramelized Peach and Mascarpone French Toast

After the not so spectacular coffee, I finished off breakfast with the better option of a glass of Taitinger champagne. 

The cabin was kept dark with shades drawn despite it being bright daylight outside. Most of the passengers slept, as it was late night on Washington time. I crashed out for a few hours.

The In Flight Entertainment:

Over the course of the long haul flights, I played with the In Flight Entertainment system. It was a bit dated and had to be navigated using a combination of the remote and the touch screen. This was not immediately apparent when you first picked up the controllers. It’s a good thing that we had 15 hours to fiddle with it. The map function was broken or inoperative – it displayed flight statistics but no map.

South African Airways In Flight Entertainment System
A Simple Interface with a Touch Screen and Wired Remote
SAA Airscape – on our cruise into South Africa

The Second Meal Service: Lunch

About 2.5 hours flight time from Johannesburg, they started the lunch service, which was actually at about 3 PM local time. This was the third meal service we’d had on our journey since we had departed Washington Dulles. The catering was not exactly to the menu, but was similar in that they had 1 beef, 1 chicken, 1 fish and one pasta option. 

South African Airways Business Class DAK-JNB Lunch

We started off with the un named amuse bouche…

Lunch Service Amuse Bouche

I coontinued on with the smoked duck breast starter…

Sliced Smoke Duck Breast Starter

There were a lot of meat eaters on thus flight as I had the grilled chicken breast, as again, they had run out of beef tenderloin. 

Grilled Chicken Breast, steamed rice, carrots and “Yassa Sauce”

Lastly, I finished off desert with the chocolate mouse with pineapple coulis. I had to go with another glass of Taitinger champagne to finish an otherwise arduous journey. 

Pineapple and Coconut Cake with Passion Fruit Coulis

We eventually touched down at OR Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg, ending our 16 hour long haul journey direct from the United States to South Africa.

South African Airways A340 on the ground at JNB

Baggage Chandling at Johannesburg Airport:

We arrived to O.R Tambo Johannesburg Airport. I had read about baggage mishandling and theft from the Johannesburg Airport but looking out the airplane window, the baggage handlers were creating new world records for carelessness with the bags. 

Bags left behind
Bags regularly left on the apron
You may not get your bag

I’m not trying to be overly critical, but I’ve never seen anything like this anywhere I’ve been.

With 250 other of my new best friends on the Airbus 340, we got off the plane and made a mad dash for the South African immigration line. It seems that the SAA Beijing – Johannesburg flight was arriving at the same time so we all crushed together in a long serpentine queue waiting for entry stamps. SAA does not issue Fast Track cards for international arrivals at SAA and the immigration officers seem to like to chit chat here about nothing relevant to the immigration process. It took twenty minutes for us to make it through. Make note that this is not a fast process if you’re rushing for the last airport train to downtown. 

OR Tambo International Arrivals Hall – Baggage Claim

Our Checked Baggage? Missing in Action

I made the seventh and final inquiry with the SAA baggage desk in the secure side of the airport. As expected, even though I had a slight glimmer of hope, my checked bag did not turn up. I was told to expect it within 120 hours at the maximum but more likely within 2 – 3 days. I became convinced then having seen the issues with the recovery of the bags and the ones littered over the apron, that there were two kinds of bags – “checked” and “lost”. 

My Final Thoughts on South African Airways Long Haul Business Class:

Overall I was highly impressed with South African Airways Long Haul Business Class. I was not expecting too much. The hard product was far better than what I expected and even included features that you’d expect in First – mattress pads, large thick duvet’s and personal space that rivals true First on some carriers. When they say that First class is being reduced globally with business class getting better and better, that actually applies in this case. As a result, I’d highly recommend using SAA Long Haul Business for your travels to SA. 

It seems they release reward space between 300-360 days or within 7 days in some cases. At the time of writing, I’ve found lots of last minute availability from South America and Asia to South Africa, which might make a good connection point if you’re looking to try this out. It seems that they don’t make last minute space on all routes so it’s a bit of a dice roll as to whether you’ll get lucky.


Advertisements

South African Airways has conducted “1 stop” service to and from South Africa and the United States for several years. While they do serve a non stop route with their Airbus 340-600 aircraft from Johannesburg to New York, they’ve also typically had a one stop service from Johannesburg to Washington Dulles. At the time of this trip, the stopover was in Dakar Senegal, but has also now surfaced on the Washington. United States – Accra, Ghana route.

This is our experience with the stopover heading eastward from Washington Dulles to Johannesburg, South Africa after our South African Airways Business Class flight from Washington Dulles to Dakar.


This post is one chapter on our trip to South Africa, a Safari in the Maasai Mara in Kenya and Mauritius. This trip was redeemed through Air Canada’s Aeroplan and through Starwood Preferred Guest (Marriott Bonvoy) and Hyatt Gold Passport. For more information on how this trip was booked, please see our trip introduction here. For other parts of the trip, please see this index.

If you enjoyed this post, please follow us here or on social media through Facebook, Twitter or Instagram for more travel tips and hacks on how to “Upgrade Your Travels”.


Read More from This Trip


A Technical Stop: South African Airways Washington Dulles – Johannesburg; Technical Stopover in Dakar, Senegal

“While technical stopovers aren’t always fun, they can be if they are in a remote destination. A stopover in Dakar, Senegal is something you don’t get to experience every day”

This particular service from Washington Dulles to Johannesburg stopped in Dakar, Senegal for fuel and to take on /drop off passengers. The service continued on to Johannesburg under the same SA 208 flight number. There has been lots of discussion about the technical stop and how it’s interruptive of the flight and any attempts to try to get some rest. I personally loved it, but only because Dakar was a place that I hadn’t been to before. I doubt that I’d be interested in doing it all over again if I was regularly traveling this route and I’d probably opt for the non stop sister South African Airways flight from John Fitzgerald Kennedy Airport in New York non stop to Johannesburg if I had the choice. You may feel the same way after you see the photographs here as well.

We landed in the pitch black of the Léopold Sédar Senghor International Airport of Dakar, parking at a non gate position. It was a scheduled arrival of 6:25 AM when we arrived. Stairs were brought up and we deplaned some passengers. 

Bus Transfer for Arriving Dakar Passengers

An army of ground crew came on to clean and groom plane – removing trash and servicing the plane. Lights were on in the cabin as we waited. We were up and able to move around on the aircraft but not off the plane. Given the timings, it was totally dark on arrival but got lighter as the time went on. I asked to step on to the jet bridge stairs to take a look around and they were even super reluctant to allow that. I snuck off a few photos. Of interest is that when they refueled the plane, the crew asked everyone to stay seated in their seats while the process was underway. Being seated in the front, we were also able to see new flight attendant crews being loaded, along with 3 new pilots. The old crew got off and retired for the evening.

Servicing
Loading New Catering

There were some great over wing views of our Airbus 340-300.

View from the Wing: Airbus 340-300

As the hour technical stop passed away, the sun started to rise on a new day in West Africa.

Sunrise from the DAK airfield

After a quick hour, it was time to leave Dakar. The door was closed and we taxied toward the runway. It was sunrise by this point, and we were able to see around the airport a little bit. 

Views of Senegal Airways

We were able to see the African Renaissance Monument overlooking the airport, which was neat to see.

Views of the African Renaissance Monument from the Dakar Airfield
Mosques and Minarets

Léopold Sédar Senghor Airport has only one runway and no adjacent taxi ways. We held at the hold line to allow an Emirates and a Turkish airline flight to land. I loved this photograph below as it showed how roughly landscaped the terrain was and that you didn’t need manicured and trimmed lawns and sprinkler systems on the sides of runways in order to land planes.

Airfield Landscaping
Emirates B777 landing at Dakar

Departing Dakar: a Gorgeous Coastline!

When it came time to leave, we taxied down the runway with a U-turn at the end. I was able to get some fabulous photographs on the way out as the sun broke through the sky. It was one of those times when the aerial photographs looked absolutely beautiful. 

Morning Light on our Climb to Altitude
Views over Dakar, Senegal
Fishing Boats Headed Out for the Day
Morning Climb to Altitude
Dakar Senegal Coastline
The Roof Tops of Dakar

My thoughts on our Technical Stop in Dakar:

Wow – What a really memorable stopover, especially considering we never got off the plane.

The technical stopover was a pretty cool way to see a part of the world that will likely take me a lifetime to get to. Even though we never left the airport, I found seeing the African Renaissance Monument and the coastline of Senegal exceptionally cool. Of course, I was travelling for leisure purposes at the time. If you’re a regular commuter on the USA to South Africa Route, this is likely more of an inconvenience than an enjoyment for you. In my view, the interruption of the night’s sleep was worth it for the limited sights in a world very far far away from my every day life. For me, that’s what travel is all about.


Advertisements

South African Airways offers long haul services from 10 locations around the world in Asia, South American, North America and South America. It’s fair to say that I wish there were more locations to choose from. We had 7 flights with South African Airways on this trip and loved almost every single experience with SAA.


This post is one chapter on our trip to South Africa, a Safari in the Maasai Mara in Kenya and Mauritius. This trip was redeemed through Air Canada’s Aeroplan and through Starwood Preferred Guest (Marriott Bonvoy) and Hyatt Gold Passport. For more information on how this trip was booked, please see our trip introduction here. For other parts of the trip, please see this index.


If you enjoyed this post, please follow us here or on social media through Facebook, Twitter or Instagram for more travel tips and hacks on how to “Upgrade Your Travels”.


Read More from This Trip

Review: South African Airways Business Class A340-3, Washington Dulles International – Dakar Léopold Sédar Senghor International Airport

Flying with South African is like flying with an airline stuck in a time warp. It is like flying was 15 years ago. . . It has older services and older equipment, but at the same time, South African is offering services and amenities today that almost every airline has discontinued or forgotten about. Mattress pads and thick duvets in business class? You got it. The largest business cabins out there? Yep, right here. Amuse bouche canapés before every meal? Yup three different kinds. Simply put, there is a reason that South African Airways is reporting massive financial problems and is having difficulties competing against the European and Middle East carriers. No one else is offering the services that South African Airways continues to offer in today’s aviation environment. Okay okay, maybe some of their gas guzzling Airbus 340’s are the problem, but the level of how the planes are stocked can’t be helping. My advice: get some South African Long Haul business class service while it still lasts in its current form.  

South African Airways
IAD-DKR (Washington Dulles International – Léopold Sédar Senghor International Airport Dakar, Senegal) 
SA 208 – Business Class (J)
5:40 PM – 6:25 AM +1
November 5, 2013
Booked: Airbus 340-300E
Flown: Airbus 340-300E

Leaving the wonderful Lufthansa Senator Lounge Washington Dulles, we walked through a deserted terminal and arrived at Gate B37. The same SAA check in staff conducted a quick document check at the podium and we made one final (and sixth inquiry) on the checked bags. One has made it, the other one was still missing in action. 

Boarding SAA at Dulles Gate B37
SAA Boarding Pop Up Displays at IAD

At T – 65 minutes we were invited to board for the priority boarding where we saw the first of many future SAA pull up cosmetics on the rest of our trip.

On Board South African Airways Business Class Long Haul:

The business cabin on our Airbus 340-300E was configured in a 2-2-2 set up. There was a massive amount of space between the rows of seats and the row in front of you. It was just as much personal space as Lufthansa First Class, and much, much more space than Lufthansa Business, Asiana Quadra Smartium Business, Air Canada XM Business, and United Business First. 

South African Airways A340-3 Business Class Seats
South African Airways Business Class Seats A340-3 “Center Seats”

Just look at the amount of room between the seat and the next seat in front of you. You could practically fit another whole business seat in there. . .

Heaps of leg room and personal space between rows on these seats
South African Airways Business Class – View from your seat
Cabin Views – South African Airways A340-3

The cabin was reasonably well equipped with plug in seat power available and an old school wired remote for the entertainment selection.

The seat itself was also configured to adjust 5 different ways, and had a timed massage feature built into it.

The flight load was about was 60% full in the front cabins. Disappointingly, the route controller for SAA is either asleep at the wheel or non existent as when I checked the night before when I was looking for the quickest way to get to JNB, SAA did not make any business class reward seats available on this particular flight. This likely means that once the two initial business reward seats are gone at the 300 day mark, the reward opportunities are gone for good. For me, this shows a lost opportunity for SAA as either they are not monitoring the inventory of what is selling, or there are no opportunities to buy up to business class, or about 12 people cancelled on our very flight at the very last minute. Perhaps this is not part of their strategy to maximize revenue under this opportunity.

The aircraft was boarded early and on the way at 535 pm – 5 min before the scheduled departure. A pre-departure beverage was offered from the tray. We had “sparkling”.

Pre-Departure Beverage Service: Orange Juice or Sparkling

A bottle of water was also dropped off with ample amounts made available behind the bar.

The Amenity Kits: Temple Spa

As we were preparing to get underway, a small amenity kit was presented. The kit was not obviously branded by any particular cosmetic line. In my opinion, it was another lost opportunity for SAA for some additional revenue. This particular kit was sand colored, although it did not match the interior of the plane, which was beige in color. The kit contained the strangest looking Zebra style socks, comb, Temple Spa lip balm and not much else. My initial impressions were that it wasn’t going to see much future use. 

Sand Colored SAA Amenity Kits
Contents of the SAA Temple Spa Amenity Kits

The Meal Service: A three course dinner

We were offered a towel service on the way out of Dulles. Along with the tower service, menus were presented, along with a separate wine list card which was inserted within the menu. The wines would turn out to be the same ones offered throughout the trip on short haul and medium haul SAA flights. 

SAA Business Class IAD-DAK Menu Cards
SAA Menu Cards IAD-DAK
SAA Business Class IAD-DAK Three Course Dinner Meal

The Wine Program:

SAA Business Class IAD-DAK Whites and Bubbles
SAA Business Class IAD-DAK Reds and Ports

After some Tattinger champagne, an amuse bouche was dropped off. 

Amuse Bouche with Canapés
Canapés: dropped off without menu description or identification

I started off with the Balik Salmon, which was tasty and nicely presented on a tray with individual salt and pepper shakers and a salad. 

SAA Business Class Meal Presentation – Starter Course
Balik Salmon and Japanese Pickle Rolls served with Pear Salad and Currey Remoulade

I asked to be served the Braised Beef Short Rib, but they were out by the time they got to row 4. I had the chicken thigh instead. Very tasty and you’ll note that the portion sizes were a little bit smaller than some of the larger servings you get on other carriers. 

Slow Braised Chicken Thigh Roulade, with spaghetti, squash and vegetable medley, buttered spaetzle, braised Swiss chard and chicken jus

I finished off with the cheese plate. This was just average; it wasn’t the worst I’d ever had (British Airways), but it wasn’t like Lufthansa or Swiss (who do extraordinary cheeses).

Cheese Plate

Overall, I was pleased with the menus. The food was interesting and different than the usual plain mainstream airline offerings. The portions were a little bit smaller but varied. The food was not as flavorful or exotic as Lufthansa First Class but they were pretty darn tasty. I’d have to say in retrospect that I was pretty pleased with the offerings if I was mentally comparing the plates to the best of what Lufthansa had to offer. 

The Sleep Set: SAA Mattress Pads and Comforters

After dinner, the crew dropped off a comforter and a mattress pad for sleeping. I personally found the mattress pad a “so so” experience. I changed into pajamas that I had brought with me. The mattress pad felt like sleeping on a loose mattress sheet all rumpled up similar to camping. I actually found the cabin to be quite hot. This Airbus 340-300E, like many others, had no individual air vents above the seats so there was little that could be done to adjust the temperature. Lights went out after dinner service until about 7 1/2 hours into the flight or about 30 minutes from Dakar I managed to get some sleep as we traveled over the Atlantic, and recovered a bit from the short turnaround last night. 

SAA Business Class Sleep Service

The crew quickly prepared the cabin for landing. This involved lights on, all bags, mattress pads and blankets being stowed. I didn’t bother to change out of my pajamas.

We landed at a non gate position at Léopold Sédar Senghor International Airport in Dakar, Senegal.

Disembarking Passengers in Dakar, Senegal

First (but not final) Thoughts on South African Airways Business Class:

Wow – what a quirky carrier. Travelling with South African Airways is like flying in the early nineteen nineties when real efforts were made to impress business travelers. Our flights had substantial room, great food and wines, in addition to lots of amenities that you don’t normally experience in today’s international business class. Unfortunately, all these extras combined with an inefficient fleet has made them financially uncompetitive. Despite this, I’d still fly with the again as soon as possible as this amount of generosity when flying won’t last forever.


Advertisements

During our time in Washington Dulles, we were able to visit the Lufthansa Senator Lounge. The Lufthansa Senator Lounge is one of only two Lufthansa Lounges in the United States with the other one being in New York (Newark, New Jersey). A cut above a typical North American lounge, the space featured quality champagne along with great views. The space set the tone for a great overseas flight.


This post is one chapter on our trip to South Africa, a Safari in the Maasai Mara in Kenya and Mauritius. This trip was redeemed through Air Canada’s Aeroplan and through Starwood Preferred Guest (Marriott Bonvoy) and Hyatt Gold Passport. For more information on how this trip was booked, please see our trip introduction here. For other parts of the trip, please see this index.

If you enjoyed this post, please follow us here or on social media through Facebook, Twitter or Instagram for more travel tips and hacks on how to “Upgrade Your Travels”.


Read More from This Trip


Review: Lufthansa Senator Lounge, Washington Dulles International Airport, Virgina United States

“The Lufthansa Senator Lounge was a cut above the usual North American Star Alliance Lounge experience, highlighted by an upgraded food and beverage program.”

Checking into South African Airways:

Our difficulties with flight cancellations continued…

On landing in Washington Dulles, we approached UA Customer Service desks in Concourse C to try to check / prompt United on the status of the checked bags. The agent said that one bag was here at IAD “in the pit” and the other was missing in action. The agent sent us to UA baggage services for further investigation.

We left the tired and dark United concourse and went to United baggage services in the IAD domestic arrivals hall. We got an “I don’t know” answer. “You should check later in Johannesburg” was his useful suggestion. Is there any way to check now? “Not really. There’s 10,000 bags out there.” 

Without any real resolution there, we decided to give up on the bags prior to leaving North America and went into the beautiful departures hall at Dulles to check in with South African Airways.  The main terminal was designed in 1958 by famed Finnish-American architect Eero Saarinen, and it is highly regarded for its graceful beauty, suggestive of flight.

Washington Dulles Departure Hall
South African Airways Check In Counters at Washington Dulles

Arriving to the South African Airways Business Class counters, we received a “I’m sorry I can’t check you in.”.

“They’ve booked you on the flight but haven’t issued an e-ticket yet.” Oh boy.

We received an explanation that United had re-booked us but not re-ticketed us. I asked about the seat assignments that we had called about earlier this morning. “Yes, we have those but no ticket has been issued.” We were re-directed back over to the United check in desk where we spent the next 40 minutes at the counter there while an agent talked on the phone attempting to get our tickets “re-ticketed”. The reservations agent allegedly had to manually re-ticket ever segment of your 10 segment itinerary for two persons. Groan. 

After that test of patience was finished, we returned to South African Airways with new e-ticket numbers on 016 ticket stock. This time we were able to check in again without any issue. Seats were assigned as promised. We were invited verbally to visit the Lufthansa Senator Lounge near Gate B51. 

Finally, after 1.5 days of bouncing around North America, we were finally going to be on our outbound overseas flight!! If our troubles only ended there, we would have been happy. However, we’d later have another test of travel as we moved on through this trip.

Locating the Lufthansa Senator Lounge:

We left the SAA check in desk and took the train over to Concourse B. Concourse B was a beautiful terminal compared to the dungeon United is presently in at Washington Dulles Concourse C. Bright open windows letting in natural light with wide walkways with and beautiful flags from many countries hung across the ceilings led to an interesting, international appearance. After passing through the dank and dark UA concourse so many times, I had no idea IAD could look this good. 

Washington Dulles Concourse B

We easily located the Lufthansa Senator / Business Lounge thanks to it’s bright safety yellow décor. No one will miss that on the walk by. It probably glows at night it’s so bright. Somehow, they make the company colors work.

Locating the Senator Lounge
The brightest lounge entry around: IAD Lufthansa Senator Lounge

Accessing the Lufthansa Senator Lounge:

The lounge was accessed today courtesy of the class of service of our Star Alliance business class ticket. The lounge can also be accessed for those with a Star Alliance Gold Card, regardless of travel class.

This is a duplex sub divided lounge with both a Business Lounge for business class passengers and a Senator Lounge available for Lufthansa Elites, and Star Alliance Gold Members. There was also a small roped off area within the Senator Lounge for Lufthansa First Class Passengers.

The hours of lounges are usually tough to find so here they are as shown on Nov 6, 2013. 

“Closed for Lunch” : Operating Hours

Inside the Lufthansa Senator Lounge:

The lounge is on two levels with the separate Business Lounge (not visited by us today) downstairs. Entry was on the top level of the lounge and we were granted access to the Senator Lounge portion thanks to my wife’s Star Gold card. The lounge was empty on arrival at the time of our visit at T – 3.5 hours from the SAA flight but filled up by the time we had to leave. The clientele were primarily Germans catching their LH ride home. 

Comfortable Dark Blue Lufthansa Loungers
Lufthansa Senator Seating
Natural Light from the Windows

The Senator lounge had similar chair loungers as in the Frankfurt and Munich lounges. Lufthansa Senator Lounges are typically crowded but this out post version in Washington Dulles was quiet and peaceful.

There was also a tiny first class section against the glass (not pictured). It appeared that it was added after the fact. The wifi sponsored today by T-mobile was horribly slow. Worse than 56 k dial up slow. . .

Food and Beverage in the Lufthansa Senator Lounge:

There was a great selection and servings of food available which puts the other Star Alliance Lounges in the United States (ie: the United Clubs) to shame. Admittedly, we’ve gotten used to less exciting food in the North American Clubs. Whether they’d be the United Clubs, AAdmiral Clubs or the Delta Sky Clubs, the foods haven’t been super exciting. Consistent with a proper international first / business lounge, the Lufthansa Senator Lounge stood our among the mediocrity and provided quite a few options, including hot and cold features.

Substantial Food Offerings
Almost enough for an entire meal replacement
Hot foods also available

There was manned bar service here thanks to local laws with Heinseick Champagne being poured on request in fabulous Schott Swistel stemware. It’s pretty rare in my experience to enjoy wine or champagne from branded stemware, so I thought that this was pretty unique.

Full Service Bar

We also had airside views of the gate areas immediately outside the lounge as well.

Great Airside Views

After we settled in, we were able to relax a little bit for the first time prior to a great experience with South African Airways.

Chilled champagne in a proper stemware flute
Getting Ready for an Overseas flight to South Africa via Dakar

My thoughts on the Lufthansa Senator Lounge Washington Dulles:

This was a lounge that we could have spent some serious time in!! I’ve always been impressed with Lufthansa Senator Lounges. The usual crowding issues that occur at these lounges in Germany was gone with this out post version in Washington Dulles. We were able to relax in style with lovely champagne while we awaited our South African Airways flight. The food and beverage program at this particular Lufthansa Senator Lounge really made our stay that much more comfortable, setting this place apart from the usual North American lounge experience.


Advertisements

Our previous plans of flying to South Africa via Sao Paulo Brazil on United Airlines Business First were scuttled thanks to the cancellation of our Chicago – Sao Paulo flight. We were re-booked to travel to Johannesburg on South African Airways via Dakar Senegal. The downside of our re-booking, was that we had to get up early to take another positioning flight to get to our overseas one. The other passengers on the original routing to Sao Paulo were taking a 5 PM departure, whereas we had to get back to the airport for an 11 AM departure.


This post is one chapter on our trip to South Africa, a Safari in the Maasai Mara in Kenya and Mauritius. This trip was redeemed through Air Canada’s Aeroplan and through Starwood Preferred Guest (Marriott Bonvoy) and Hyatt Gold Passport. For more information on how this trip was booked, please see our trip introduction here. For other parts of the trip, please see this index.

If you enjoyed this post, please follow us here or on social media through Facebook, Twitter or Instagram for more travel tips and hacks on how to “Upgrade Your Travels”.


Read More from This Trip


Review: United Airlines First Class A320, Chicago O’Hare – Washington Dulles

Leaving the InterContinental Chicago O’Hare, we found the free airport shuttle, which ran every 20 minutes. 

Checking Into United Airlines:

Taking a proactive approach in making sure our bags didn’t get left behind, we checked with United Airlines Chicago check in desks. There were no news on our bags or whether they had been re-tagged. Passing through security, we checked again with the customer service desks in Concourse B. “Sorry, can’t help you.”

We headed back through the tunnel again to Concourse C. Stopping by for our third visit in the last twenty four hours to the United Club Terminal One Concourse C, we re-checked at the counter where we were re-ticketed last night and were told “Both your bags are in IAD already”. 

We contacted Air Canada’s Aeroplan which is headquartered in Montreal Quebec to confirm continuation of original itinerary and non cancellation of remaining balance of the e-ticket based on missing the one segment. We also called and contacted South African Airlines USA office for seat assignments on the IAD-DAK-JNB legs. Maybe this was overkill re-confirming everything, but we decided to take a complete approach to avoid any more surprises.

We left the Chicago United Club for the last time on this trip, burned up the rest of our United Airlines free food vouchers on Starbucks take-aways and located the gate for our positioning flight to Washington Dulles. 

On Board United Airlines Domestic First Class:

We had separate seats on opposite sides of the cabin due to the last minute re-booking so we sat apart and didn’t bother to try any last minute negotiations on board to switch with other passengers. 

United Airlines.
Business Class
ORD – IAD (Chicago O’Hare – Washington Dulles)
UA778 – Business Class (D)
November 5, 2013
Booked: Airbus 320
Flown: Airbus 320

Pre-Departure drink service today was orange juice in the picnic glass. 

United Pre-Departure Plastic Picnic Cup

Food and Beverage: A light snack

Today’s Snack service was the warm scone presented in a similar format to the “freshly baked cookies”. The snack was okay but with a short seven hour sleep and a hustle back to the airport, I was really hungry for a decent breakfast by this time.

In flight Snack – Freshly Baked Cookies

I spent most of the flight sleeping as we’d only gotten 3 hours of sleep the night before by the time we had settled into the hotel and I figured I’d probably want to stay up a bit for the long haul. 

We had some interesting mountain terrain on the approach in. 

Light terrain on approach to Washington Dulles IAD

We landed on the ground at Washington Dulles and made our way to the departures hall to obtain boarding cards for our South African Airways international flight.

The iconic Washington Dulles Departure Hall

In closing:

Our Chicago to Washington Dulles short haul flight wasn’t all too exciting. It got us from end to end. It was a flight that I never expected to end up taking. At least, we were dropped off at the iconic Washington Dulles airport in reasonable shape to look forward to our next adventure.


Advertisements

As a result of our flight cancellation, we were provided a place to rest for the night courtesy of United Airlines. We were comfortably put up in the InterContinental Chicago O’Hare airport; a four star hotel aiming to be the luxury choice when staying close to the airport. With vouchers in hand, we found our own way from the airport to the hotel.


This post is one chapter on our trip to South Africa, a Safari in the Maasai Mara in Kenya and Mauritius. This trip was redeemed through Air Canada’s Aeroplan and through Starwood Preferred Guest (Marriott Bonvoy) and Hyatt Gold Passport. For more information on how this trip was booked, please see our trip introduction here. For other parts of the trip, please see this index.

If you enjoyed this post, please follow us here or on social media through Facebook, Twitter or Instagram for more travel tips and hacks on how to “Upgrade Your Travels”.


Read More from This Trip


Review: InterContinental Chicago O’Hare Airport, Rosemont, Illinois, United States of America.

“Probably the most impressive airport hotel I’ve been put up in, as a result of a flight cancellation”

Getting to the InterContinental:

After our flight cancellation, from the steps of the public shuttle rank, we found the Intercontinental Hotel shuttle at about 3 AM and made it to the room for 3:40 AM. Some of our fellow travellers got booked with Embassy Suites and Best Western, it seems, dependent on tier status and fare class. As we left Chicago O’Hare, all were outside looking for the shuttle busses, which weren’t running at top frequency in the early morning hours. Many of the Brazillians on the flight were a bit lost and didn’t speak English. My Portuguese isn’t what it could be. 

The InterContinental is very closely located to the Chicago O’Hare airfield. It’s less than 4 miles our 8 minutes drive from the airport. The hotel is nicely situated on the Catherine Chevalier Woods greenbelt, which allows for better views considering airport hotels usually look into office parks, hangars or other industrial facilities.

Only 10 minutes away and situated on a greenbelt

The InterContinental is a five hundred and seventy room luxury four star hotel aiming for the luxury business segment of the market. On arrival to the hotel, they didn’t have any kings or queens left so we went senior citizen style with two doubles. The check in was relatively smooth with the United Airlines voucher accepted with out issue. We were politely reminded of an 11 AM check out, which only meant a very short seven hour turn around. An inquiry of internet availability today? “That will be $16.” I guess that’s how you treat business travellers. No thanks for us…

InterContinental Front Desk

The Room: Two Doubles

We made it up to our room which was attractively and freshly designed with fashionable, but neutral colours.

Senior Citizen Style with Two Spacious Doubles
A Nicely Appointed Room

There was a lovely rain shower in the bathroom. This was the last decent shower we had on the trip until we returned to Europe.

Rain Shower Bathrooms
Nicely Appointed Bathrooms

A Room With a View:

We awoke the next morning to a view over the Catherine Chevalier Woods green space. I’ll take waking up to a view like this any day over an office complex or other low rise building.

Room with a Nice and Peaceful View

My thoughts on our Seven Hour stay at the Intercontinental Chicago O’Hare:

Overall, the Intercontinental Chicago O’Hare was a much nicer airport hotel than I would have expected. I left this place thinking that I would have liked to have spent more time here. Although we only had a seven hour stay on the property, it was more than comfortable for the brief stop. It was, by far, the nicest hotel an airline has put me up in over many flight cancellations.

As a result of my great but brief experience here, I’d easily stay here again in the future.

Editors Note:

At the time of publication, the hotel has been reflagged and is operating as the Loews Chicago O’Hare Airport hotel


Advertisements

One of the flights I was most looking forward to was our international long haul flight on United Airlines. It’s often tough to find international reward space in Business Class on United. As a result, I was looking forward to flying with them and trying out their product. Unfortunately, after best efforts, our plans went a little off road right and we got swapped onto another Star Alliance Carrier.


This post is one chapter on our trip to South Africa, a Safari in the Maasai Mara in Kenya and Mauritius. This trip was redeemed through Air Canada’s Aeroplan and through Starwood Preferred Guest (Marriott Bonvoy) and Hyatt Gold Passport. For more information on how this trip was booked, please see our trip introduction here. For other parts of the trip, please see this index.

If you enjoyed this post, please follow us here or on social media through Facebook, Twitter or Instagram for more travel tips and hacks on how to “Upgrade Your Travels”.


Read More from This Trip


Almost a Review: United Airlines Business First (Business Class) B777-2, Chicago O’Hare – Sao Paulo

I was pretty stoked to try the United Business First long haul business class product. A full flat bed, a large personal TV and no fuel surcharges on reward tickets. What’s not to like? Unfortunately the flight didn’t pan out for us as you will read here. I’ve decided to include what we experienced here for the benefit of others who face cancelled flights on tickets and how we dealt with it. 

At about an hour before the flight, we left the United Club Chicago Terminal One Concourse C country club lounge and walked over to Gate C18 A. Tonight’s boarding for the flight to Brazil was through a double bridge boarding with separate boarding counters for Group 1, First and Business, and patrons of the Global First Lounge. A document check at the counter was also conducted for the Brazil Visas needed for most passengers. We had gotten Brazil Visas in advance at the Consulate in Vancouver and at the time, they were printed versions in our passport.

Getting Ready to Board Group 1
In the Priorty Queue after the first wave of travelers
United Airlines
Business Class
ORD-GRU (Chicago O’Hare Terminal 1 – Sao Paulo Guarluous)
UA 845 – Business Class (I)
9:25 PM – 11: 40 AM
November 4, 2013
Booked: Boeing 777-200
Flown: Boeing 777-200 – Flight was cancelled due to mechanical issues (radar)

On Board United Airlines Long Haul Business Class:

After boarding Group 1, we headed on board. As we found our seat, we passed the United Airlines International First Class product, which has now hit the airline graveyard of discontinued products. At it’s time, it was a nice pod configuration, with an extra course here and there on the otherwise business class menu.

United International First Class B777-200; while it lasted

We found our way to our seats and settled in on board. The United Business Class product on their Boeing 777-200 aircraft is in a 2 – 4 – 2 configuration. It’s also worth noting that some of the seats face backwards, dependent on row assignment. If you are unfortunate enough to be stuck in the middle bank of four, the two middle seats have no direct aisle access without climbing over the seat next to you. I’ve reviewed the Boeing 777-200 Business First product before on a domestic First Class flight with United Airlines Denver – Houston but I had never experienced the product on a long haul international flight.

Getting to the seat itself, we settled into a comfortable, but narrow seat. I personally found the seats a little compact when lying down. As a 6ft 2 inch tall person, I had to curl up a bit to lie flat in the seats. In other highlights, we had 3 windows to our seat on the Boeing 777-200.

United Airlines Business First Forward Facing Aisle Seat

While we settled in, a pre departure beverage offered. Tonight it was sparkling wine in the “elegant” picnic plastic cup. Looking around, there was not much sign of wear and tear on tonight’s plane. 

A Classy “plastic” way to start a flight
Settling In to our View for the next 11 hours
Large Advanced Video on Demand

The video screen was a Giant IFE screen – or giant by comparison to what is normally on offer out there today. 

View from our seat, with the cargo hatch still open

Food and Beverage: A Full 3 Course Dinner

While we were waiting at the gate, the crew came around to take dinner orders.

Star Anise Featured Prominently on Tonight’s Business First Menu
Starter Menus
Dinner Menu that, surprisingly, doesn’t feature Star Anise

The Amenity Kits:

After the dinner orders were taken, the flight crew offered newspapers from the cart, including Financial Times and The Wall Street Journal.

The flight attendent handed out Amenity Kits. These were well stocked and the United kits is personally one of my favourites and the best Business Class Amenity Kits we received on the trip. 

Convenient Carry Pouch; Useful
With a see through side; also useful
Full of reasonably useful items and one of the better and durable amenity kit combs out there

As we buttoned up to depart we started to taxi out to our departing runway. I decided to listen to Channel 9 on the way out. For many years, Channel 9 on the audio “From the Flight Deck” that allowed travellers to listen to Pilot – Air Traffic Controller conversation on Channel 9. It’s not every day that you can take advantage of it, since it’s at pilot discretion (or accidentally left on). Luck was on my side today since I was able to locate it and pick up some conversation traffic.

Unfortunately, I was able to hear that a mechanical issue with the aircraft’s radar had identified itself. We were nearing the hold line of the runway and we ended up parking on a taxi way while the flight deck attempted to re-boot the system. 

After about 30 minutes of aircraft idle, the decision was made to return to the gate and off load the plane along with all our personal effects and checked baggage.

Headed for the United Club while they fixed the problems:

The plan was to have the United engineers trouble shoot the system. United planned to open the United Club for travelers in First and Business to accommodate us while they fixed the aircraft. 

I’ve never seen a line like this rushing for the United Club (laughing). . .

Re-Enterinng the United Club to wait out a flight delay

Unfortunately, the bar staff in the United Club had gone home and the only things left was leftover snack silos and the instant coffee machines.

Re-Boarding UA 845 to Sao Paulo:

After about an hour, ground staff announced that they were ready for re-boarding. Everyone crushed together the holding area gates. To make matters worse, the supervising gate agent announced that although the problem hadn’t completely been fixed, if the plane were to leave tonight, that the ground staff had 40 minutes to get the plane fully loaded with all passengers completely seated otherwise the crew would be illegal and over time. Somewhere, somehow, they were given the green light and we all rushed on board, eager to get underway.

Re-Boarding UA 845 ORD-GRU for the Second Time

Flight Officialy Cancelled:

Our re-booking efforts with United

We returned to the United Club lounge in Terminal One Concourse C to handle our re-booking. You’ll note that I say “re-booking” here and not “re-ticketing”, although at the time we were non the wiser. . .

I knew we may be in for some challenges with the irregular operations situation given that we were traveling on reward tickets and that UA did not normally fly all the way to Johannesburg through Sao Paulo. I was also little worried that we were going to be subjected to a downgrade to economy with little or no protection on our behalf given we were booked on a reward ticket and generally, there are challenges due to high demand in finding reward business seats to South Africa. 

I had a hunch they would re-book us into a paid fare bucket but I didn’t know what routing they would propose, or whether they would attempt to stick us immediately back into any available Star Alliance business reward bucket “I” inventory based on currently available reward space. As we were waiting, I whipped out the laptop while we were standing in line and using the UA Club wifi, was lucky enough to find 2 Lufthansa business seats ORD to FRA and then FRA-JNB (Airbus 380) the very next day. I kept this information up my sleeve in case they proposed something bad. 

As we approached the counter, I explained our situation of Johannesburg being the final destination and that Brazil was a means to an end, a method of getting to South Africa. The agent initially had no idea where JNB was or where it was situated. OH boy. This isn’t going to turn out well… 

After a few keystrokes on the computer, I was asked “ What about Dallas?” – my brain immediately thinking, what carrier flies from Dallas to Jo-Berg? Did she mean United via Houston and Lagos? The Chicago accent was a little thick and I was corrected – “No – Dulles as in Washington DC”. Would we be interested in tickets departing IAD-DAK-JNB in paid revenue fare bucket? Of course- we accepted this prior to any mind changing and she started to work on our re-booking.

After about 20 minutes, and the last ones in line to be re-booked we were placed on a routing ORD-IAD-DAK-JNB. Turns out we didn’t need that Lufthansa booking after all. Although, it was really nice to have this information up our sleeve in case we needed it. I should add that by this time, this re-booking was being completed at 2:30 AM. While my wife finished this off at the counter, I got on the internet and started making alternate arrangements for our paid South African Internal flights. Since we needed to get to Cape Town, we had booked a separate paid ticket from Johannesburg to Cape Town on South African Airways. We initially had a 5 hour delay between the reward and paid tickets, but with the flight cancellation, even that was not enough slack time in the travel plans. 

As my wife returned with $42 USD in food vouchers and a hotel voucher courtesy of United, we eventually got booted out of the UA Club at about 2:45 AM as all the staff wanted to go home. United Club staff told us our luggages would be located, and re-tagged to Johannesburg. We asked for the bags back but were assured that the bags would be looked after. This was my second mistake in not being insistent on having the bags returned. We were given a new baggage claim voucher.

Not knowing what the internet situation was at the hotel we stayed outside the UA club and looked up numbers for SAA ticket offices to rebook our separate paid JNB-CPT tickets to a later flight which cost us $161 in change fees and fares differences which we would have to eat. We tried to change this ticket on line, but despite purchasing the ticket through the www.flysaa.com website, the booking portal was being stubborn and refused to allow us to change the ticket. As the North American Ticket office for South African was well closed for the evening, we called the South African Airways ticket office via International Call in Johannesburg and had the tickets changed. 

Concourse C at O’Hare is absolutely deserted at 3 AM. I’d been through here many times but never this quiet.

O’Hare Concourse C at 3 AM

My thoughts on United Business First and Our Cancellation:

As the day came and went, I started off really looking forward to our first flight in United Business First’s comfortable lie flat seats. While we were almost underway, our efforts were a little bit foiled thanks to mechanical issues. It’s always a mild disaster whenever things go south on a wide body flight cancellation since carriers are never resourced appropriately with enough human capital in order to deal re-arranging two hundred passengers. Despite this, United did a reasonable job in getting us going on alternate transportation flights and did the best that they could given the circumstances. I’ll look forward to flying United Business again one day.