World Traveller 73 
A Cold War Secret: Visiting Whittier, Alaska, USA
The town of Whittier Alaska is one of Alaska is cold war installations that is almost completely abandoned. The town of Whittier was Alaska’s deep-sea port in response to the Japanese Aleutian islands attack in World War II. The US government built a secret sea base, that was completely sealed off from the rest of the world. The US government deserted Whittier in 1960, leaving behind many old structures from an era past. Whittier remain sealed off to the world until the year 2000, when conversions to the tunnel allowed for easier public access. We would tour through Whittier on a March sunday afternoon.
This post is one chapter on a winter trip to Alaska, United States. This trip was enhanced through Marriott Bonvoy Elite Status, Alaska Mileage Plan and Hertz Gold Plus Rewards. For parts of the trip, please see this index.
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✈️ Read more from this trip:
- Trip Introduction: Skiing Aleyska, Alaskan Railroad and Dog Sledding in Alaska
- Springhill Suites Bellingham, Washington, USA
- Alaska Airlines First Class: Bellingham – Seattle
- Alaska Airlines First Class: Seattle – Anchorage
- My Experience as a Hertz President’s Circle renter in Anchorage, Alaska, USA
- Aloft Anchorage, Alaska, USA
- A Cold War Secret: Visiting Whittier, Alaska
- The Alyeska Hotel, Girdwood, Alaska, USA
- Three Days at Alyeska Mountain Resort, USA
- Marriott Anchorage Downtown, Alaska, USA
- The Alaska Railroad Aurora Winter Train: Anchorage – Fairbanks
- Springhill Suites Fairbanks, Alaska, USA
- Dog Sledding in Fairbanks with Rod’s Alaskan Guide Service, North Pole, USA
- Visiting the North Pole, Alaska
- Alaska Airlines First Class: Fairbanks – Anchorage
- Alaska Airlines First Class: Anchorage – Seattle
- Alaska Airlines First Class: Seattle – Bellingham
A Cold War Secret: Visiting Whittier, Alaska, United States of America.
After arriving in Alaska, we were looking for some activities to do before settling into Girdwood, AK for three days worth of skiing at The Hotel Alyeska & The Aleyska Ski Resort. With it being winter season, most hiking trails were closed. We looked for some glacier hikes, but with most access roads completely sealed up due to snow conditions, we were stuck with city visits.
We then discovered the city of Whittier, Alaska. Whittier is one of the strangest places to visit; especially in the off-season. It’s offbeat location just miles away from civilization makes it an intriguing and interesting place to stop in. We would end up visiting for a few hours on a rainy Sunday afternoon.
About Whittier, Alaska:
The town of Whittier Alaska, population 200 persons, is one of the most bizarre towns I’ve had the opportunity to visit. Whittier was founded in 1941 as a deepwater military base. It was established when after the attack on the Aleutian islands during World War II, the United States Government decided that it needed a port hidden from the outside world from which to launch naval operations in the greater Pacific Ocean.
The result was heavily fortified Whittier. Whittier is surrounded by 3,500 peaks and has dark grey clouds that surround the area for most of the year. A supply tunnel was built cut out of solid granite and more than 1,000 people were housed all together in a single tower. The US Army maintained Whittier until 1968 until they left, leaving behind the charming Buckner building, but also the 14 story residential Bagich Towers.
In the year 2000, it was decided to overhaul the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel to change the rail tunnel to allow for automobile traffic. It’s only been for the last 24 years that you’ve now been able to drive into one of the most bizarre places on the planet..
Getting to Whittier, Alaska:
We drove to Whittier starting off from the Aloft Anchorage. You’ll definitely need a car in order to get to Whittier. The only exception to this is if you happen to be arriving on a cruise ship, which occasionally ports in Whittier during the summer months. The Alaskan ferry route also comes through on a weekly basis.
We had some excellent scenery driving the Turnagain arm towards Whittier. With views of the ice break up just south of Anchorage, it was a very picturesque drive.
Accessing Whittier through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel:
Access to Whittier is through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel. This tunnel is Carter threw a 3500 foot granite mountain. Previously a train tunnel, in 2000 it was converted to allow for access single lane traffic vehicles.
There are various tolls to be paid if you plan on accessing Whittier. The tall is paid inbound, and it’s free to exit Whittier with no toll on the outbound. At all for a small passenger vehicle is US$13. We paid our Toll which came with a free map and join the queue to wait for our turn to enter.
The Anton Anderson tunnel entrance is a rather cold war looking contraption. It seemed as though we getting ready to enter the Cheyanne mountain at NORAD as we lined up to gain access into this single lane traffic tunnel.
When it came time to enter, we were given the greenlight to enter the tunnel. We followed at a slow pace the single lane traffic through a massive mountain block.
The tunnel is wide enough to carry train cars. However it was narrow enough that if a car broke down the whole passage way would be blocked. We followed through the tunnel all the way to the end to see daylight on the other side.
Arriving into Whitter:
We passed all the way through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel and arrived into Whittier Alaska. The town was surrounded in greatness; full of snow cloud and a trap valley that it seemed only the most determined hikers could escape from.
Visiting the Buckner Building:
Our first visit in Whittier was to the Buckner building. This was a Cold War creation in the slope of a hill coming from the brutalist architectural school.
The Buckner building was constructed in 1953 to act as a mini residential city for Whittier is a military personnel. After the military pulled out of Whittier in 1960 the building was left abandoned it has fallen into modern disrepair.
The amount of decay and age on the Buckner building was truly amazing. Set in amongst Alaska’s intense snowfall, the abandon Buckner building which has sat empty for the past sixty years has a really mysterious and almost haunted aura to it.
I happen to enjoy visiting these Cold War relic sites from an era past. The Buckner building was among one of the highlights of our visit to Whittier.
Passing the Begich Towers:
The Begich towers is part of Whittier’s strange past. The tower started life as the hodge building in the year 1956 when it was built to house newly arrived military personnel.
It was abandoned by the military in 1960 and eventually purchased by the city of Whittier and 72. It currently houses up 250 people and has the town grocery store post office in community center.
Underground tunnels link the Begich to the local elementary school. The Begich Towers is part of Whittier’s strange past. The tower started life as the Hodge building in the year 1956 when it was built the house newly arrived military personnel. It was abandoned by the military in 1960 and eventually purchased by the city of Whittier in 1972. Currently houses up 250 people and has the town grocery store post office in community center. Underground tunnels link it to the local elementary school.
The Harbour:
Leaving the towns two building attractions, we eventually passed by the Anchor Inn, one of two hotels still remaining in Whittier. During our winter visit, The Anchor Inn was the only hotel that was open.
Our travels took us down to the Whittier deep sea port. During our visit in March, the area it was quite wet and soppy. The usual boats that make a harbour lively were missing.
We located a port of the Alaskan ferry system. While it was pouring with rain we didn’t get out and walk too much.
Without many restaurants or actual tourist attractions open during a Sunday in March. After a look around we ended up heading back towards Girdwood, AK. We had a short wait at the tunnel for about 20 minutes before we were able to get our permission to leave Whittier.
Leaving Whitter:
After we had our fill of snow and rain, we had it on the route back towards the Anton Tunnel. It was pretty deserted although we were fortunate enough to have a clear view of the tunnel and the mountain that it passed underneath. It was super impressive how deep the tunnel was dug into this mountain
We had a short 20 minute wait at the tunnel exit before the doors open and we are allowed in for our free departure from Whittier. With only two other cars waiting with us, it was pretty desolate..
Eventually, it was time to leave Whittier. We are among the first through the tunnel where we had the surreal view looking down the lane as we passed through the mountain.
It was all quiet on the other side back in the land of civilization. We did happen across to Moose we’re hanging out having a gossip chat.
We headed off to check in at The Hotel Alyeska for a three night stay.
My Thoughts on Visiting Whittier:
Whittier – Alaska had to of been one of the most bizarre places to have spent an afternoon.
The dark and dreary city was a unique one, marked by some specific landmarks that represented the Cold War era. While there wasn’t much open during our off-season Sunday visit, I was happy to have spent a few hours touring this unique town.
I could only imagine what it would be like in the summer months with everything open and a vibrant cruise ship scene.
World Traveller 73 
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